My Journey From Europe to the Free States of America
Eduard Fenderich 1829
Extracts from my diary.

On May 25th in the year 1829 at three o'clock in the morning, I departed from my home country, Switzerland, and started on my journey to the other half of the earth. The radiant moon enlightened my way, but the thoughts that occupied me were rather dark. I realized that the ties of love and friendship and the memories of happy hours are by no means easily broken. The dark ruins of the old castle in our neighborhood looked down on my way and seemed to altogether satisfied with my departing. I remembered the many careless, youthful plays which the old tower had watched. Alas, gone by the very soon my home and my country.

Yet hope encouraged my heart. Should not I find all I was leaving behind me-- and more in the United States, the country to which belonged the future, for it was young and rich and free. So on I went.

At nine A.M., I arrived at Basel. Since the mail coach which I intended to board did not leave until 5 P.M., I busied myself with writing of some letters, did some shopping and exchanged my money for French gold coins.

It took the mail coach but little time to reach the French border where our baggage was examined and our passports were endorsed. At ten P.M. we arrived at Muelhausen. There we stayed during the night. The dawn of the next day found me strolling through the town which was well worth seeing. The architecture of the houses is so very attractive. The front of the dwellings is a continued arched arcade, on top of which are pretty balconies.

When the postilion sounded his horn, I again mounted the rocking carriage and at a fast tempo we passed many a fine country village, borough, and town. In great steep turns the road leads up and through the Vosges Mountains. When we had dined to the culmination point, the sun just set, and the sky was a flaming picture in red and gold. The green pines appeared to be black as it garbed in mourning because of the dying day. After the last ray of light had disappeared it became dark and cool. The travelers stopped talking, we closed the windows, pulled the night-cap over the ears and tried to sleep.

Our moving bed chamber sped on through the night and brought us to Luneville by 10 o'clock in the morning on the 27th of May. The conductor granted us a quarter of an hour for breakfast. That gave me time, though very limited one, to view the palace of the late King Stanislaus of Poland, whose memory as Duke of Lorraine was still kept alive in the heart of the people. The palace was neither big nor beautiful but the adjoining park with its statues and busts and sundry pieces of sculpture amid the majestic old oaks, beeches, and pines certainly made up for this lack. The most previous of these works of art have been transferred to Paris, Munich, Wannheim and Schwetzingen. 'Till we came to Luneville the German language was prevailing, but now we had entered French territory.

At three P.M. the mail coach reached the noteworthy of town of Nancy. Not until the next morning was our journey to be continued. We all welcomed the rest, for one becomes just as tired of riding as of walking. It is not all fun for days and nights to be jolted in a vehicle, be it ever so comfortable.

I secured a room in the hotel, "The Good Woman", the sign board bearing a woman without a head. Nance is a very beautiful town. It's wide streets with board sidewalks are built very regularly. Big modern houses many of them like palaces, great squares, magnificent churches make it a very desirable dwelling place. The so called Rotunde or Prince's Hall is the final resting place of the late dukes of Lorraine, upon whose sarcophagus of black marble are printed in gold letters the names of the most prominent ones. The painted windows reflect the light in mellow colors, making the effect the more impressing. A board of marble placed at the entrance, tells you that the emperors Joseph II and Francis have paid a tribute to their dead relatives by visiting this place. The same is recorded of Emperor Alexander and the famous renowned Christine of Sweden.

The environment of Nancy is of great natural beauty. The soil is fertile. All the county sears are immured by an eight to ten feet high solid stone wall.

As a poor illustration of the much spoken prosperity of France, it struck me to see in every village and town we passed the many signs "For Sale". These signs were attached equally to houses, palaces, and estates. Everywhere there were to be found - at churches, houses, stables, street corners. This and the extensive pubic begging is proof that France is by no means an El Dorado.

May 28th
At ten A.M. we again mounted the mail coach. The day was fine but hot. The streets covered with dust whirled up by the wheels of the heavy coach drawn by six horses. Quickly we padded Toul, Lyamy, St. Disier. At Bar Le Duc we stopped at five for dinner. On this occasion, I'll insert that the French cuisine is an excellent one. But the price for a dinner is three francs and a half, and the waitress never forgets to remind you. Noubliex-pas-la fille, Monsieur (Don't forget the waitress, sir). A tip of two is the smallest amount for her service. The meal includes wine to any amount you want to drink, according to the custom throughout the country. The French cooks are perfect. The table is attractively set, but I would advise the traveler not to look into the kitchen. Order and cleanliness seem to be altogether unknown in the kitchen of a French restaurant. They all resemble a pig sty as much as one drop of water to the other.

In France, the conveyance of mail and persons is well organized and serves the public with extraordinary regularity and punctuality. Comfortable upholstered seats are provided for everybody. Strong steel springs reduce the bouncing considerably. Prices are reasonable. The streets are very well taken care of. A journey by mail coach is always interesting. People of every age, sex and class meet here.

During the night we passed Vitry Le Francois and some other little places. On the 29th of May at seven A.M. we reach Charlomssur Marne, an old quaint town.

At noon we approached the center of the champagne production Ay and Epernay, beautiful amid the vine clad hills, some of which are crowned by wind mills. Great catacombs are hewn into the chalky strato to serve as excellent warehouse for the costly beverage. Here millions of bottles are stored away to be improved in quality by years of keeping. Epernay and Ay bear witness of their wealth in every respect.

I was granted the privilege of being the guest of my fellow traveler, who invited me to share in a bottle of the exceedingly good champagne- very expensive- but unsurpassable- a drop for the gods.

A fresh team of horses sped us through Chatillon, Dormans, Chatteau Thierry. There the people held their fair and it surprised and amused me to see two or three women riding one donkey, one of them in the middle and two in baskets on each side.

At distance of from fourteen to sixteen hours from Paris the streets are paved with big cobble stones. We suffered less from the dust- but all the more from rolling and bouncing. The nearer we came to the Metropolis, the more crowded were the streets. Vehicles of every kind convey the necessities of daily life to the immense city.

May 30th- seven A.M.
A poisonous smell from the sewers was the sure sign that we were near Paris. About half an hours time away from the city they dispose to contents of their sewers. By means of evaporation they gain some stuff which is to be used as a kind of manure. This manure yields high profit and provides a living for many a poor devil.

At eight o'clock we were in the center of the town and at the end of the first part of our journey. The travelers bade each other farewell and everyone proceeded to his particular goal.

Upon arrival at the hotel de Ga Roch where my brother Carl was living, I changed my dusty clothes and was soon ready to explore the town under Carl's guidance.

First of all I wanted to see the Palais Royale. Reaching it from the Rue Viviener it looks more like a bar racks than like a palace. But after passing though the passages one is amazed to face the most elaborate stores of the world. Jewelry stores that contain the treasures of a thousand and one nights, stores where they sell clothes of costly silk and velvet and laces, other were the delicatessen of every country of the world are exhibited, splendid restaurants- they are flourish here. He who has money can satisfy whatever wish or whim he may have.

There is a bank where all kinds of coin are to be had-- Russian ruble, the English pence, the Spanish quadrupel, the Turkish plaster, the German mark, the American dollar.

There are libraries where for a four sous you may rest on a most comfortable chair or couch and read any book of any age and language imaginable in either original or translated. Every paper and magazine of every country is to be had.

During the night, the effect of the most brilliant gas lights, multiplied by hundred of large mirrors is magical. Crystal chandeliers of lustrous beauty dazzle the eye. A splendid pageant indeed. Winding stairways made of crystal bring one up to the balconies. They amaze even the most widely traveled. Arcades and lobbies roofed with glass are unique. In short everything is modern, elegant, splendid to perfection. There is no demand which is not complied with. Everywhere at street corners and squares one sees "Cabinet Separes" (reserved closets). These are brightly lighted, with mirrors decorated- withdrawals. One pays three sous and a lad, yeah, not infrequently a young lady, furnishes one with some little pieces of paper, clean and soft as silk. And now one can enjoy all possible comfort.

For the same purpose, the Duke of Orleans, in the middle of his very beautiful park has erected a little pavilion in Chinese style. It has the shape of a star, is thirty square foot large, tastefully painted and decorated. In this pavilion, twenty persons may be at the same time without seeing another. Everyone has a mirror in front of himself, a door in the back which shuts automatically, causing as great a noise as the beating of a drum. A tin bowl absorbs and carries the urine. There is a faucet above each bowl which issues fresh water, eliminating all bad smell. The entrance is free and the millionaire and the beggar can stand side by side and urinate to their hearts content. Since it is not my intention to give account of all the marvels of this most marvelous town of the world- I could rave on through twenty more pages-- I'll continue to relate about the proceeding of my journey to America.

After five days in this Babylonia of 80,000 people of all kinds, of nationality, color and language. I departed on June 4th for Rouen. The mail coach arrived there at half past seven P.M.

For the newcomer it is hard to evade the commissioners of the different hotels. Each one praises his hotel as the best, cheapest and most desirable. The successful one expects you to tip him generously which I consider to be unfair; for they are in the employ of the hotel. It is here as everywhere- the stranger has to bear the expenses. It was in Rouen where for the first time in life I saw the interesting and attractive spectacle of a sea port. It made me forget the fact that the town is less worth mentioning, for it is an old place with narrow dark alleys.

June 5th
Our mail coach not leaving before 8 A.M. I had plenty of time to view a steamboat at anchor in the harbor of Rouen. It is built of solid oak for account of the government for 500,000 francs. They were just busy to adjust the machinery of 150 horsepower. The ships capacity if five hundred tons. Her destination is Algeria. An officer had the kindness to show and explain to me whatever I was interested in.

When I returned to the office of the mail coach I was surprised to meet country people of mine from the neighboring canton, Luzerne. They too, were headed for the free states of America. We mounted for Le Havre, which we reached at eight P.M.

One of our fellow travelers of this last day of ours in Europe was young Parisian whose goal was the Isle of Guadeloupe. He tried to persuade me to accompany him. He promised me a position as overseer of two or three hundred slaves. But the words "Overseer" and "Slave" were repellant to me. Was not I bound for the freedom of America. Was it not this longing for freedom which I had torn myself away from my native country? How could I help to enslave other people if my whole being was crying out for independence. I, of course, rejected his offer unhesitatingly.

In Le Havre, first thing I did was to go to the harbor. When my eyes surveyed the infinite waves of the sea, an idea of the infinite omnipotence of God, of His grand nature, the many countries, the many peoples, all this country, all His children swept my mind.

Far away, some ships seemed to follow the trail of the setting sun. By and by they disappeared beyond the horizon. Had the darkness devoured them, taken them into a realm unknown to us?

The great lantern of the harbor was presently lighted, the fire of the beacons beckoned out of the distant darkness. Into my sleep and dreams the restless waves called to me.

June 6th
I was only too willing to follow the dall of the waves. I arose very early and went right away down to the harbor. It consists of three parts which indent into the center of the town. They may be locked by great gates so that the water remains in the during the ebb tide. There are always some hundred vessels of all countries of the world. Entrance and departure take place during flood tide. The entrance is rather difficult, sometimes dangerous. It has happened that a ship went down in view of the sheltering harbor.

It was nine o'clock when I inquired for a vessel bound for the United States. I, at once, was brought to one of the greatest and most important looking of vessels. It was to leave at noon at the height of the flood tide. I booked my passage for the price of 120 francs. Then I took care of my baggage being conveyed to the boat. My passport was examined and endorsed, and then I had to provide the food for the voyage of about sixty days.

My country people who did not understand [... can't make out text ...] their food too. So I secured 150 pounds of biscuit, one barrel of wine, bacon, rice, salt, vinegar, and some cans of condensed soup. I had hardly finished the shopping and ordered the groceries to be brought aboard the ship when the big engine started to move. Some man of the crew assured me that it would take at least two more hours before the ship would reach the embankment where it would be easily possible for me to board the boat. So I went back to the hotel and hurriedly wrote a couple of letters and mailed them. Then I made for the embankment, was delayed by the bridge which I had to cross when I had to cross the great water basin. A ship, just coming in had caused the bridge to be opened and forced me to wait until it had passed and the bridge was closed again.

When at last I arrived at the point where I was supposed to board the ship, I saw it was far out in the open sea. I had to sacrifice ten francs in order to hire a small boat and four mariners who rowed me out to the ship. 'Till now I cannot understand how they made it possible to fight the rolling waves.

It was three o'clock in the afternoon when I set foot upon the Brittain. I was surprised to find part of the travelers already being sea sick. They staggered like drunk and vomited- well it was some vomiting I tell you.

The next day the Coast of England was in sight and that was the very last we saw of Europe. Shall I ever see her again? Now I am going to relate about the ship, her crew and her passengers.

The ship Great Brittain is an American one, coming from New York. She is very well built and equipped. Her tonnage is 800 tons. She has been constructed in the year of 1127 for the price of 75,000 piasters or 180,000 francs. Experts in Le Havre unanimously declared her to be the perfection of modern ship building. She crosses the Atlantic Ocean 4 or 5 times every year. She has three great main masts each of which has four sails one upon another to which may be attached some more side sails. The height is 36 feet, width 38 feet and the length is 130 feet. Sixteen feet high, as much as her draught-- she is covered with copper. The ballast consists of stones and is said to weight 5000 centner. Upon the waterproof deck there is the cabin, very well furnished and decorated with mirrors and gildings with room for 10 passengers, a ladies room; a room for the captain and one for the pilot and the provision room, barred by copper railings. The cabin contains all the instruments and charts for navigation. In back of the cabin are two toilets and two big cannons, by which the pilot is called, or in the case of fog, danger signals are issued.

Somewhat elevated, the room with the steering wheel and the compass is arranged in such a way that the man who handles the wheel is always able to overlook the sea. This place is never to be abandoned. Whatever may happen day and night, someone is always on duty. A small bell signals the hours and the time of shifting. Between the main mast and the fore mast are the two life boats, the kitchen and the room for the crew.

At both sides of the ship is one huge anchor, each of which weighs forty to fifty centmers, and is attached to a heavy chain. An axle tree of oak mounted with iron serves to wind them up. The bow is decorated with gilded arabesque and shows the name of the ship in golden letters. Long round ventilators of linen furnish the interior of the ship with fresh air. Part of the deck is roofed with tent cloth to provide a sun sheltered place.

At both sides of the regular ship kitchen are two more kitchens for the convenience of the passengers who cook their own meals.

The crew consists of the captain Mr. Francis French, the first and second helmsman, all from New York, 25 sailors and three colored men who took care of the kitchen. The captain and his two helmsmen are excellent navigators. French, a very well educated, sociable gentleman. The first helmsman is a veritable sea faring lion with a thunderous-like voice which makes the roughest sailor tremble.

The passengers were divided into two classes, those of the cabin and those of the steerage. The first ones have to pay 750 francs, for which sum all they may ask for-- very good meals, wine and liquors and bed to sleep in. The latter ones, who pay 120 francs are provided with but an empty cabin to sleep in and with water and wood. All baggage is free. There were eight passengers in the cabin who paid 6000 francs- 275 in the steerage, who children and adults, paid 30,000 francs. The fare must be paid in Le Havre. Some less well built and equipped have reduced the fare to 80, yes, 70, and 60 francs. It was reported that one old uncomfortable and out of date ship had agreed to haul over passengers for 50 francs.

Including the crew, there were as many as 314 persons on our ship. Two hundred chickens and ducks, five fat geese, seven pigs, a goat and a black poodle crossed the water in our company. The passengers of the cabin were a family of Paris- Monsieur Leon De Neker, a Roman ordained Bishop of St. Louis, two fraters, one a cleric, one an organist and a 76 year old gentleman of Paris. He had lived in Canada these 53 years long and had crossed the ocean to visit the country of his birth. Now he was on his way back to his second home. He was a very jolly smiling old dear who stood the voyage exceedingly well. I enjoyed his company very much and am obliged to him for much valuable information. The passengers of the steerage were partly from Alsace and Lorraine, some from Wurttemberg, some Switzerland-- men and woman of every age, children and babies. As a rule the children did not suffer so much of the seasickness as did the adults.

The Switzer, some of whom bring along a considerable fortune, distinguished themselves from the rest by their cleanliness and order. The people from Alsace were a rough bunch, their past time being gambling and drinking. They caused much trouble of which I am going to relate later on.

It was surprising to learn the motives that had urged part of the passengers to emigrate. Some had entirely sane ideas of their future in the U.S. They expected and were willing to work and receive in return for their work a decent, fair living free of the bother the government of their country taxed them with. But there were some who dreamed of America as the land of the idle, the promised land, where milk and honey was abundant. Where they would find dollars lying in the street.

One old man told me that the sole purpose of his emigration was to get all the wood he wanted. He had been caught at taking wood from the forest of his country and had been imprisoned for this crime, so when he had heard of the wealth of the timber in the States, he made up his mind to leave home. Some intended to continue in the new world their most contemptuous business, smuggling. They were told that this was a very flourishing one at the lakes.

As to order and cleanliness on the ship, the rules were very stringent: a most necessary precaution because of the many different people and the every increasing heat. The sailors cleaned the deck daily. In the steerage, each family was responsible for its special place and cabin. The crew was continuously busy with some kind of work: pumps required constant attention. The ropes had to be untwisted and made into new ones, and every day the latitude, the degree of the temperature and water was to be measured and entered in the journal. The captain himself supervised the daily issue of wood and water. He demanded a report of the state of health of his passengers every morning. Whenever someone was sick, he offered all the help he could give from his own medical knowledge, his medicine cabinet and his excellent cuisine. Most people were sick during the first week, but some became used to the rocking of the vessel. I had the disadvantage of being the latest to arrive and had no bed at all. They were all taken before I came. The captain provided me with an old large sail, when folded was all I had to lay on the floor of my cabin to rest upon. But I got so used to it, that I slept as well as if I were between the downs of my mother's bed. The food I had stored was rather plain which is but natural in regard to the fact that it had cost me but twenty francs. Of wine I had plenty and I received many a good bite from the captain's kitchen.

I advise everybody who wants to emigrate to take along from home some good schnapps, which is very valuable as a means against seasickness, dried fruit and smoked hams and sausage. The rest he can buy at Le Havre as well as at home, with the advantage of it being fresh. Don't forget a couple of tins of condensed soup.

Bread keeps as long as ten days. After that, it should be cut into slices and dried in the oven until it is yellow. Thus prepared it keeps for a long time and tastes good. Whoever wants milk in the coffee in the way that he takes some quarts of milk and some pounds of sugar. Two or three spoonfuls suffice for a pot full of coffee. Coffee is very desirable. Add to it a small amount of schnapps, it is the best medicine when seasick.

Whoever provides himself well and sensibly with the right kind of food, who choose a well built modern ship who keeps himself clean, has nothing to fear whatsoever. There is no more danger in crossing the dean than there is in crossing the country.

I'll continue to write about our voyage. It soon became monotonous. There was no change, each day as the previous one. The weather was fine, we had little wind and our ship proceeded slowly because of the wind being mostly a western one. It takes less time to cross from New York to Europe than the reverse.

The sea appears like a vast convex plane, the center of which is the ship. A sunset upon the water is of infinite beauty. No painter with whatever colors can imitate it. I think that the rising sun is of greater splendor at land. The star spangled sky is magically reflected by the water.

June 25
Today the ninetieth of our voyage, we passed with Azores without stopping.

June 30
There was great excitement on board the "Great Brittain". Some Alsacians having as usual, gambled and drunk more than goad, had drilled one of the sweet water barrels in order to secure more water than their daily ration. It was soon found out. The captain tried to arrest the criminals but met with resistance. He hurried to his room and returned armed with two pistols accompanied by his helmsman. This powerful giant managed the transgressors without any help other than methodical fists in such a convincing manner that their resistance vanished with their courage. The wives and children of the so punished one threw themselves at the captain's feet asking for forgiveness which was magnanimously granted.

All passengers were ordered on deck and I was chosen to translate and give voice to the captain's proclamation from which the people were to learn the American law grants unlimited power to any caption in an event like this. If anyone would be found again to endanger the life of passengers and crew, he would be hanged.

Then the captain made sure of ascertaining all the arms anyone possessed. There were not a few for some passengers had equipped themselves as if going to war.

July 7
Early at eight we came in sight of a beautiful brig. She first hoisted red flag, then the flag of truce. We saluted with the American flag. The captain sent a boat with the helmsman and four sailors to find out what was wanted. They soon returned with the captain. He was a nice looking young man, clad in blue uniform and a broad rimmed straw hat. The mutual welcome was very polite and cordial. They exchanged news and papers. Then the young gentlemen told of his trouble. His sextant was broken: he was short of wood. He received all he wanted, and more, namely, a few bottles of excellent wine. Gratefully he left our vessel. His brig was set for Dublin. She was freighted with sugar from the Antilles. Toward evening we had the first favorable wind which made our ship speed like a galloping horse.

July 8
This morning a boy was born on board the "Great Brittain". Everything was well and normal though the mother was more than forty years old. The event was greatly welcomed as a news that interrupted the more and more tiresome voyage. The question of how long will it take was much heard of. Monsieur De Neker assured me that we have as much as twice measured the distance to New York, considering the zig-zag course the unfavorable wind had forced our ship to take.

July 10
The new born babe died from lack of proper food. The goat we had on board was sick. The mother was not able to nourish the child. The little body was wrapped in a piece of tent cloth, sewed up and lain upon a board to which a heavy stone was attached. The captain spoke an impressionable prayer and silently the child was delivered to the wet grave.

July 11
A complete calm brought the ship to a complete rest. The captain availed himself of the opportunity to control the passengers and their passports. He found out two deadheads, that is two men who came on board without paying for their passage. He threatened to have them imprisoned. That caused one of them to spit out the cash. The other having no money at all, threw himself upon the pity of his fellow passengers who collected 70 francs, which the captain was satisfied to acknowledge as sufficient.

July 16
Another child was born today- a girl. According to the testimony of her mother and to all appearance, she arrived six weeks before her time. She was baptized on the same day by Monsieur de Neker. I was godfather. Women in the family should be careful, and if possible avoid such a long voyage, since as you know accidents will happen. But if they do go, they should take along what is necessary for a confinement. You cannot expect a captain to take along the outfit of a midwife.

July 18
We experienced a heavy thunderstorm today. The waves were higher than we had seen them as yet. The dark clouds, the heavy rain, made the water look altogether different. The plummet was thrown out but no ground was fathomed, though it went as deep as about 100 fathoms. That made it impossible to throw anchor as would have been desired.

July 22
The day of Magdalena- I had hoped for seeing the American coast today. I should have considered it to be a good augury. In vain. Impatience and annoyance grow. One cannot help understand the feeling of resentment of the companions of Columbus, who wanted to throw the genteel leader overboard. Think how long that first crossing took, how altogether limited the knowledge of geography and navigation was, how imperfect the ships. It was believed at the time that everlasting night covered the sea, that the black hand of Satan drew down to the pit. You know at that time the devil was credited with much more power and given more homage and reverence than at our enlightened age. There was hardly an event, accident of any kind in which he was supposed to be active. But the ravages of time even attack the devil. All these things ought to be considered to give full credit to the unexcelled enterprise of Columbus. The sea certainly is something powerful, potent, awe inspiring. The very best book you can read about it can give you a remote idea of its grandeur. To see it, to cross it, to conquer it makes a man greater and braver, yet more modest.

July 28
Sky and water, nothing else, yet we approach land. Birds came out to meet our ship.

August 1
At 3 o'clock P.M. we came in sight of land. It was the 56th day of our voyage. At the most remote point of the horizon we discovered Long Island, soon we were able to recognize hills and forests. All passengers very much pleased and excited, dressed in their best clothes and dolled up as much as possible. The womenfolk dressed like peacocks. The beds were covered with clean sheets, the kitchens were broken up and thrown overboard. All sails were set, and at this last day of our voyage the wind blew for the first time, mockingly behind us. Slowly we neared the coast. The beacons were clearly visible. We hoisted the flag of our ship and the American flag and soon we had the pilot on board who guided us securely into the quarantine station where we dropped anchor.

August 2
Everybody rose early. The weather was fine. As much as we could see of it, the scenery was grand, similar to that around the lake of Zuric. At six o'clock, a small boat brought the official health examiner, who at once secured the standard of health. There were no sick people on board, the cleanliness met with the approval of the officers; so there was nothing to bar us from the entrance to the promised land.

The advance to New York was a pleasure. Steamships went back and forth, small canoes swam like ducks on the water. Two great vessels were at anchor. Flags of all nations floated in the wind. New York spread its vast rows of houses in front of us. Many people came to the Great Brittain, part of which to meet their friends and relatives, part just from curiosity. There was commotions, talking, shouting, running as if a kingdom were for sale for a mere song. Before we disembarked, we all had to play on piaster as a contribution for a foreign hospital. This hospital is the refuge of all poor, sick foreigners. Thus we had reached the goal of our voyage after 56 days upon the water without having met a single accident. In regard of the 314 passengers, the captain is due special credit for his excellent guidance. The majority of the passengers boarded a steamer up the river New York to Albany whence they proceeded to the lakes. From New York to Albany is 180 miles or 60 hours. This long distance is covered in about 12 hours by means of a steamboat.

Traveling in this county is done quicker, cheaper and more convenient than in Europe. To cover a distance of six to 900 English miles, one does not make more fuss as in Europe when journeying from a neighboring town to village. The steamboats are equipped with elegance and convenience that leaves nothing more to ask for.

If it comes to navigation, technical or mechanical art, the American is far superior to the European. But he ahs little time and love for the fine art, painting, sculpture, architecture, poetry and music. To him, that is a profitless business. He is too practical to devote his time to such thankless tasks.

Rightfully New York may claim to be termed-- the American Paris. It is beautifully and regularly built. After dark its wide street are lighted by gas. Most homes are of brick with all kinds of modern conveniences and comfort. Splendid carriages cross the boulevards in all directions. There are more than a hundred churches, illuminated by lustrous crystal chandeliers heated when cold weather arrives, carpeted and furnished with upholstered benches.

The public edifices are proof of the wealth of this country: so are the stores. In long succession, they line the streets. Their displays tempt and induce to buy what they offer-- all natural and artificial products of all countries of the globe.

There are things, of course, of which I disapprove. Among them are the many fires which destroy the old frame houses by rows. The public at such a spectacle is but an inactive onlooker, for especially for this purpose hired men, whose sole duty it is to be prepared day and night to hurry to the rescue.

Then there is something else which I consider disgusting and unworthy of a town as bag and rich as New York. All wastes from kitchen and meals is disposed of in the streets. Hundreds of pigs replace the broom. You doubt it. Well, it is a fact. I was told that five years ago this evil was forbidden. What was the result? The small of the fowl waste became unbearable, the health of the population was endangered. So the health officers demanded either freedom for the pigs of an organized system of street cleaning. That being too expensive since the law of this country does not allow the prisoners to do this job, the pigs were given back their freedom and they enjoy it.

I did not stay in New York but went on to Philadelphia. Philadelphia is very much like New York except that its streets are kept in darkness after the lights of the sky are extinguished. That is all the more astonishing as the material for gas and coal is to be found nearer Philadelphia than New York.

This town is growing rapidly. Two thousand houses have been erected here during the past year. The last census gave the number of the population 187,000. I am sure that in 40-50 years the town will be one of the largest in the world.

I saw a skeleton of a mammoth antediluvian animal- in the museum which was much larger than an Asiatic elephant.

Lately I viewed a ship being constructed. When finished she will be [...] from everywhere when in Philadelphia don't fail to look at her. I am convinced that all papers of the world will report when she is perfected. America is an immensely rich country. Raw products of all kinds are to be found plentifully. The soil is fertile. The short but hot summer ripens the fruit quickly. Intelligence and industriousness make use of the favors nature has bestowed on this her favorite child. The government taxes all foreign goods in order to favor the inland products. Iron and steel are of excellent quality. Arms manufactured here cannot be surpassed by any from the old countries. Gunpowder and small shot are even better than I have ever seen them. Emigrants should leave their old guns at home, it does not pay the taxes laid upon them.

England, of which the States have been once a colony, shows her influence in language, laws, customs and manners.

The American is very proud of his country and his freedom- a freedom which is to that extent we hardly know by name. Everyone is free to express his opinion of whatever he wants. Here they don't ask you for passport, birth certificate, creed, ancestors. Work- spelled with a capital letter is the magic formula which will lead anyone to success.

Of course, there are such as abuse of the freedom. The law makes the children their own master when they are 21 years old, and let no father ever forget it. If he should see fit to give his boy a spanking, the boy is liable to sue his father and the father will be imprisoned. Indeed an incident like that occurred a few weeks ago. The pitiable father of such an unnatural son was a German.

The women are exceedingly favored by the law. It is easy for them to obtain a divorce. There are women who have three or four husbands- mind you living ones. To become married is the plainest thing in the world. Whenever two people get the notion to get married, they go to a justice of the peace, who for the price of three quarters of a dollar couples them within five minutes.

The women in this country are beautiful, but rather pale. Their only thought is the man- to be married their only ambition. There is none who will say No if on asks her. As long as the man takes care of her, everything is alright. But pity the poor chap, if he cannot. I am going to relate a little story- no fiction- which happened a few weeks ago.

A pretty wealthy young lady chanced to see a young man in the street whom she took a liking- With great skill she learned that he was a German, but one year in the country. He lived with his brother's family.

The young lady went to the judge and alleged to be in the family way. She claimed the German to be the partner. The judge cited the lad. He came accompanied by his brother- both very anxious what he was accused of.

His astonishment was genuine, when he heard of the claim of the young lady upon whom he had never before set eyes. The judge leaves him the choice between instant marriage or the workhouse.

After a short deliberation with his brother- he decided for marriage, with the intention in his mind to disappear the next day.

The ceremony was at once performed in the presence of the judge. The triumphant bride took her husband home and there she confessed I love you. I wanted you and I did not know another way to succeed. My house, my fortune, myself are all at your disposal. But if you prefer to be free- I shall not hinder you to go. His chivalry aroused, his emotions stirred, the German with flying colors submitted to her entirely. The match is a perfectly happy one.

We, in Europe, assume that in America nothing will be sold on credit. But it is done here more than in our country. The American spends more money for food than does the European. He demands eggs and ham already for breakfast. But as yet I have never found a good potato. Beer, wine and cider are good. Most of the wine is imported. The poor people, especially the colored ones, drink much schnapps regardless of their health.

The colored people of the states of New York and Pennsylvania [...] those of the southern states are slaves. One meets many Germans in New York, and Philadelphia, though more English and French. According to their prosperity, they like or dislike America. Failure they attribute to misfortune; if they are successful, they merit themselves for it.

Philadelphia boasts of 120 churches of all kinds of denomination. In 3 Catholic churches, the services are in English, French and German. No country in the world can claim so many sects, and there are new ones every year. The more absurd the dogma, the more adherences. One of the churches has introduced dances into its services. What of it? Does not the oldest, most venerable, most reliable, most imperishable book; The Holy Scriptures relate to the Jews dance around the Golden calf. Did not even David dance in front of the arc of the covenant. And what else are the processions of the Catholic churches in Europe than ostentations religious parades.

Another sect maintains that devil and hell are fictitious. Our sins they claim got their punishment right here in the form of illness, loss of fortune or loved ones, a restless tortured conscience. On the other hand there are such who see the devil everywhere. In their church they scream and weep and roll on the floor. In summer they go into the woods for a couple of days which means to them the desert. Here they serve their God. It is said that seventy paternity accusations resulted from their last outing.

Anybody is welcome to any church. Some churches are without a professional preacher. Everybody who feels inclined to do so may mount the pulpit and tell what he wants to say, even women.

The government does not interfere with anybody's beliefs and disbeliefs. They leave to their subjects to choose the way which may lean them to heaven. As long as he behaves and does not get into conflict with the law everybody is free to do what he likes.

That is the most glorious trait of the glorious, which I regret to say, is by far too little appreciated in Europe. But there will come a time when the entire world will look upon this country with envy and longing.

With this I'll close my diary. I hope to have succeeded in giving you a clearer idea of my new fatherland, than as yet you have cherished. There are a few things here as they are in Europe by nothing distinguished by none to be kept apart, among which are the dogs and they cats. Goodbye.

Eduard Fenderich